Introduction
Making the switch to sidemount is one of the most rewarding moves you can make as a diver. Whether you’re heading into caves, working on wreck penetration, or just tired of hauling a heavy tank onto your back, sidemount changes how you move in the water. But the gear matters. A lot. If you’re comparing options for the best sidemount scuba gear right now, you already know it’s not as simple as strapping a tank to your side. The harness has to be right. The wing has to be low-profile and stable. Your regulators need to route cleanly without creating drag. I’ve been teaching sidemount for years and have seen divers waste money on setups that don’t work together. This article is a practical, no-hype rundown of what actually works. No fluff, just gear that performs.
Why Sidemount Gear Matters (And What Makes It Different)
Standard backmount gear doesn’t work well for sidemount. The wing shape, harness design, and weight distribution are all built around a single cylinder on your back. When you carry tanks on your sides, you need a system that keeps them stable, allows for easy valve access, and doesn’t shift around when you’re upside down or in tight spaces. Sidemount gear is about three things: balance, redundancy, and profile. A good sidemount setup lets you trim out perfectly without cranking down your rigging. It also gives you total redundancy—two independent gas sources without needing a manifold. In a cave or wreck restriction, having your tanks alongside you instead of above you makes a huge difference. That’s why standard backmount wings and harnesses won’t cut it. You need gear built for sidemount, and that’s what we cover here.
What to Look for in Sidemount Gear: The Must-Have Features
Before we get into specific products, let’s talk about what separates good sidemount gear from stuff that will leave you fighting your rig all dive.
Wings
Your sidemount wing needs to be compact with enough lift to keep you neutral with two tanks. Most sidemount wings offer between 27 and 45 pounds of lift. More isn’t always better—too much lift can make you bob around at the surface. Look for a wing with a secure bungee or shroud system that keeps the air bladder tucked in when deflated. This reduces drag and improves trim. Also check the tank attachment system. Some wings use fixed D-rings; others have adjustable sliding systems. Sliding systems are more forgiving if you switch tank sizes.
Regulators
Hose routing is critical. Sidemount regulators usually need swivel turrets on the first stage so the hoses can point where you need them without kinking. Second stages should be small and light to reduce jaw fatigue on long dives. Balanced diaphragms are common, but avoid regulators known for free-flowing when you’re inverted—that’s a real issue in sidemount.
Tanks
Steel vs. aluminum is a big tradeoff. Steel tanks are negatively buoyant when full, which helps with trim, but they can be heavy on land. Aluminum tanks are lighter but become positively buoyant as you breathe them down. Valve configuration matters too. Independent tanks give you total redundancy without a manifold, but they require you to switch regs on ascent. Isolator manifolds allow you to shut off a failing valve without losing gas from both tanks, but they add weight and complexity.
Harnesses
The harness holds everything together. A continuous webbing harness is simple, reliable, and easy to adjust. Integrated backplates—soft or hard—add comfort and structure. Look for a system that lets you adjust the tank cradles independently so you can balance your rig properly. Quick-release buckles are nice for travel but can fail in cold water or silt, so make sure they’re robust.
Best Sidemount Wings: Lift, Profile, and Durability
These are the wings I see most often on boats and in caves. Each has a specific strength.
XDeep Stealth 2.0
This is probably the most popular sidemount wing out there right now. It has a low profile, a good bungee system, and enough lift—about 40 pounds—for most diving. The integrated harness is comfortable and the tank cradles adjust easily. Best for recreational and deep sidemount, as well as some cave work. The main tradeoff is the price—it’s not cheap, but you’re paying for a refined system.
Hollis SMS-75
This wing has been around forever and still works. It’s a little bulkier than the XDeep, but it’s tough and reliable. The bungee system is simple and the lift is about 45 pounds. Good for divers who want a no-nonsense setup. It’s also one of the easier wings to travel with.
Halcyon Eclipse
If you’re doing technical cave or wreck diving, this is a serious option. It’s more expensive and less forgiving for beginners, but the profile is incredibly clean. The bungee system is precise and the wing holds its shape well. Lift is around 37 pounds. Not the best for recreational diving—it’s built for confined spaces.
Dive Rite Nomad XT
The Nomad XT is a hybrid between a wing and a harness system. It’s modular, so you can add or remove a backplate. The lift is about 40 pounds and the profile is decent. Best for divers who want the flexibility to switch between sidemount and backmount without buying two full systems.
Best for: XDeep Stealth for all-around use, Hollis SMS for budget or casual diving, Halcyon Eclipse for tech or cave diving, Dive Rite for modular flexibility.
Best Regulator Sets for Sidemount Diving
Not all regulators are created equal for sidemount. Here’s what I recommend based on hose routing, reliability, and comfort.
Apeks MTX-R
This is a cold-water regulator with a sealed first stage and a good swivel turret. The second stage is small and the cracking effort is low. It handles inverted diving well—less risk of free-flow. Best for divers who do ice diving, deep wrecks, or caves in cold water. The price is high, but you’re getting a regulator that will last.
ScubaPro MK25/S600
A classic setup that works well for warm-water sidemount. The MK25 first stage is balanced and the S600 second stage is compact. Make sure the first stage has a swivel turret—some older MK25s don’t. This is a good option for recreational divers who also want the option for easy entry-level tech diving.
Deep6 Signature
This is a dark horse that deserves more attention. Deep6 regulators are rugged, serviceable by the user—you can do the annual service yourself—and the second stage is small and balanced. They work great for sidemount because you can route the hoses cleanly and they don’t free-flow easily. They’re also fairly affordable compared to Apeks or ScubaPro.
Practical tradeoff: Apeks MTX-R for cold water, ScubaPro MK25/S600 for general recreational diving, Deep6 Signature for value and serviceability.
Tanks and Valves: Which Cylinders Work Best for Sidemount
Your tank choice affects everything from trim to gas management. Here’s the breakdown.
Steel vs. Aluminum
Steel tanks (like LP85s or HP100s) are heavier but stay negatively buoyant throughout the dive. They’re easier to trim out because you don’t have to fight positive buoyancy. Aluminum 80s are lighter on land and cheap to fill, but they become positively buoyant as you breathe them down. You’ll need to add weight to compensate. For cave or wreck diving, steel is almost always better. For casual recreational sidemount, aluminum is fine.
Valve Configuration
Independent valves (one per tank) are the simplest and most reliable. There’s no manifold to leak or jam. But you have to remember to switch which regulator you’re breathing from on ascent. Isolator manifolds connect the two tanks, so you can shut down one side without losing all your gas. They add weight, cost, and a potential failure point. For most divers, independent valves are the way to go. If you’re doing serious cave or deep wreck diving, a manifold is worth considering.
Size Recommendations
For cave diving, LP85s or HP100s are common. They’re small enough to fit through restrictions but hold enough gas for most dives. For recreational sidemount, AL80s are standard. For travel, look at smaller steels like AL63s or LP72s—they’re easier to fly with. Divers who travel frequently and need lightweight options may want to compare travel tank options on Amazon.
Harnesses, Webbing, and Backplates: Getting the Fit Right
The harness is what makes sidemount comfortable—or a nightmare. Here’s what to look for.
Hogarthian Style
A simple continuous webbing harness is the most reliable. No buckles to fail, no padding to trap water. You adjust it once and it stays put. This is the standard for tech and cave divers. It’s cheap, easy to maintain, and works with any wing.
Integrated Soft Backplates
Systems like the Dive Rite Soft Backplate add comfort without adding bulk. They distribute the weight better and allow for more adjustability in the tank cradles. Good for divers who want extra stability.
Weight Integration
Some harnesses have built-in trim pockets. These are useful for adjusting your center of gravity, but they add complexity. I recommend starting with a simple harness and adding weight pockets later if you need them.
Common mistake: Buying a harness that’s too big or too small. Sidemount harnesses need to fit snugly but not tight. You should be able to move your shoulders freely without the harness riding up.
Reels, Spools, and Lights: The Critical Side Gear
If you’re diving sidemount in overhead environments, this gear is as important as your wing.
Primary Reels
Look for a reel with a comfortable handle, smooth drag, and at least 200 feet of line. Size matters. A big reel is easier to handle in strong current but can be bulky. A small reel is compact but harder to grip with cold hands. The Light Monkey 600-foot reel is a gold standard for cave divers, but it’s expensive. For most divers, a Dive Rite or DGX reel will work fine.
Safety Spools
You need at least one backup spool for lost line or exit line. Keep it attached to your harness with a bolt snap. Cheap spools can jam—spend a few extra dollars on a good one. A reliable backup spool is something you can find on Amazon.
Lights
Primary lights should be rechargeable (lithium-ion) with burn times of at least 4 hours. Look for a light head that’s small enough to mount on your sidemount harness without creating drag. Backup lights should run on AA batteries—reliable and easy to replace. Nitesun and Light Monkey are solid options.
Sidemount Fins, Masks, and Fitting for Comfort
These aren’t glamorous, but they affect your dive quality.
Fins
Neutral buoyancy fins are ideal for sidemount because they don’t fight your trim. In caves, shorter fins reduce the risk of kicking up silt. For open water, longer fins give you more power. A good all-around choice is the ScubaPro Jet Fin—they’re heavy but neutral.
Masks
A low-volume mask with a purge valve helps with clearing on the surface. Make sure the skirt fits your face seal well. A bad seal means constant water leakage and fogging. Try before you buy if you can.
Exposure Suits
If you’re in a wetsuit, get one that’s form-fitting to reduce air migration. In a drysuit, make sure your undergarments don’t bunch up around your waist, which can throw off your trim.
Beginner vs. Advanced Sidemount Gear: Where to Spend vs. Save
Not everyone needs top-tier gear. Here’s a quick decision guide.
Entry-Level (Recreational Sidemount)
- Wing: Hollis SMS-75 or a budget DGX customs wing—around $300–400. Enough lift for AL80s.
- Regulators: Deep6 Signature or Mares Prestige 12. Solid performers that won’t break the bank.
- Tanks: AL80s with standard valves. Cheap and easy to fill.
- Harness: Simple continuous webbing—$20 worth of nylon webbing and a few stainless steel D-rings.
Advanced (Tech/Cave)
- Wing: Halcyon Eclipse or XDeep Stealth 2.0—$600–800. Better bungee, lower profile, more durable.
- Regulators: Apeks MTX-R or ScubaPro MK25/S600. Cold-water rated, reliable on long dives.
- Tanks: LP85s or HP100s with manifolds—steel for trim and gas capacity.
- Harness: Dive Rite Soft Backplate system—$150–250. More adjustability for trim.
Bottom line: If you’re just getting started and diving in warm, open water, save your money on wings and regs. Spend it on a good light and a reliable reel if you plan to go overhead. If you’re serious about caves or deep wrecks, don’t cheap out on your wing or regulators—reliability matters when your life depends on it.
Common Sidemount Gear Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)
I’ve seen divers mess up their sidemount setup in a few predictable ways. Here’s how to avoid them.
Overbuying Lift Capacity
A 50-pound wing is overkill for two AL80s. You’ll float around at the surface like a cork. Stick with 35–45 pounds of lift.
Bad Hose Routing
If your hoses wrap around your body or stick out sideways, you’ll create drag and lose trim. Route them cleanly under your arms. Most sidemount regulators come with long hoses for this reason—make sure you’re using them.
Ignoring the Bungee System
A wing without bungee will billow out when deflated, creating drag and pulling you off balance. Always buy a wing with a decent bungee system. You can also buy a bungee retrofit kit if your wing doesn’t have one.
Using the Wrong Regulator
Some cheap regulators free-flow when you’re upside down. If you’re in a cave or doing a decompression stop, that’s a real problem. Stick with regulators known for stable performance in any position.
Sidemount Gear Care and Maintenance
Take care of your gear and it will take care of you. Sidemount gear has a few specific needs.
Rinse Bungees Thoroughly
Salt crystals can wear down bungees and make them brittle. Rinse your wing with fresh water after every saltwater dive, especially the bungee system.
Regulator Servicing
Get your regulators serviced every year or every 100 dives, whichever comes first. Sealed first stages need less attention but still require annual inspection.
Tank Inspections
Visual inspections every year, hydrostatic testing every 5 years. Don’t skip these—a tank failure is catastrophic. Use silicone spray on valve o-rings and tank boots to prevent seizing.
Bungee Replacement
Bungee loses elasticity over time. Replace it every 2–3 years or whenever you notice the wing sagging. Bungee replacement kits are cheap and easy to install. A bungee replacement kit on Amazon can be a handy item to have on hand.
Final Recommendations: My Top Sidemount Gear Picks for 2025
If you’re building a sidemount kit this year, here’s what I’d buy for two different scenarios.
Best for New Sidemount Divers
- Wing: XDeep Stealth 2.0
- Regulators: Deep6 Signature
- Tanks: AL80s with standard valves
- Harness: Hogarthian webbing set
Best for Cave/Wreck Tech Divers
- Wing: Halcyon Eclipse
- Regulators: Apeks MTX-R
- Tanks: LP85s with isolator manifold
- Harness: Dive Rite Soft Backplate
- Reel: Light Monkey 600-foot
Frequently Asked Questions About Sidemount Gear
Can I use backmount regs for sidemount?
Yes, but they may need modifications. You’ll usually need a swivel turret on the first stage and long hoses. Some backmount regs work fine; others create hose routing issues.
How much lift does my sidemount wing need?
For two AL80s, 35–40 pounds is enough. For steel tanks or heavier configurations, go up to 45 pounds. Too much lift makes surface buoyancy unstable.
Do I need a manifold for sidemount tanks?
No. Independent valves are simpler, cheaper, and more reliable. Manifolds add redundancy but also add weight and a potential failure point. Most recreational and tech divers prefer independent valves.
What’s the best tank size for sidemount diving?
For open water, AL80s are standard. For cave diving, LP85s or HP100s are popular because they’re compact and hold enough gas. For travel, AL63s or LP72s work well.
Is sidemount gear heavier than backmount?
On land, yes—you’re carrying two tanks instead of one. In the water, it’s neutral. The tradeoff is better trim and easier valve access. If you’re worried about lifting tanks, consider smaller steels or aluminum tanks.